Clearing my mind in Cesky Krumlov

Sparkling Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic.

Needing to clear our heads after the fourth quarter debacle against Vienna, the imports loaded the van (our kick-butt Volkswagen Transporter) and headed for Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic.  It was a great two days... and while it only took four hours to drive there, this rugged little corner felt a world away. 

When you cross a border there's only one thing to do - JUMP PICTURE!!!

The town of Cesky Krumlov (pronounced Chess-key Croom-Loff) is tucked into the southwest corner of the Czech Republic, about 45 minutes north of the Austrian city of Linz and just 3 hours south of Prague.  As always, the moment you cross the border you realize you are no longer in "Western" Europe, but its not really something you can pinpoint exactly, and soon the beautiful green hills, winding river, and medieval castles transport you into a whole new world.  It is a very interesting corner of the country, and I'm so glad that we were able to explore it - for while Prague is magical, you get so much of a better feeling for a country by seeing its smaller villages.   

The town square was uniquely colorful.

A sharp bend in the river made this an ideal fortress in the Middle Ages.

Chesky Krumlov is the Czech Republic's answer to Germany's Rothenburg.  Its cobblestone streets are the main attraction - however it boasts a huge castle overlooking the town and many other historical sights.  The shops are filled with souvenirs, while in the neighboring villages there seemed to be an overabundance of cheap Asian-run flea markets.  We decided to split our time eating the cheap food and soaking in the eastern atmosphere. 

I give you best price... $34.50!

Team Photo.

My favorite shot of the day - great screensaver!  (Click to make big)

The sharp bend of the town's river made it a strategic stronghold, first mentioned in 1253.

Great food...

... interesting street names.

Male Model?  Nice pose Tim.

Me and my girl.

Now that we've had a day away, we're ready to get back to it in preparation for the Eurobowl!

~ J. Twice

Raiders lose heartbreaker 22-21

In one of the craziest games I've ever been a part of, we lost to the Vienna Vikings 22-21 today.  It's still really weird writing these words - as I'm in shock that it was even possible for us to lose a game we had so clearly in hand.

Matt caught 2 TD passes in the first half and our defensive scored as well, giving us a 21-0 halftime lead.  But in the second half, it was Murphy's law as everything that could happen against us - especially things you normally don't even think about - did.  We fumbled on their one yard line going in.  Random penalties negated huge plays.  We gave up a safety on an intentional grounding call on a pass to our running back.  Still, we held a 21-8 lead with about 3 minutes to go... yet they scored 2 TDs - the last one with 4 seconds remaining - to beat us 22-21.

As I said, we had our chances but it was still a bizarre ending.  The Vikings now advance to play the Giants in the Austrian Bowl.  Our final game will be in two weeks - July 11th - in the Eurobowl Final against the Paris Flash.

Let's regroup Raiders and finish strong.

~ J. Twice

GAMEDAY: Austrian Semi-Finals

VIENNA VIKINGS at SWARCO RAIDERS

Tivoli Stadium, Innsbruck

Saturday, June 27. 5:00 pm (local Austria time)

On Saturday afternoon, the SWARCO Raiders face the rival Vienna Vikings in the semi-finals of the Austrian Football League.   The winner will advance to the Austrian Bowl on July 18th.  Catch all the live game action at LIVE.RAIDERS.AT!

Welcoming Hadley Sue via Skype

Our first virtual meeting of Hadley Sue Lindermann, my sister's first child & my new niece!  TGI-Skype!

Living abroad comes with its own unique challenges, among the biggest being communication with family and friends back home.  While the blog helps, there is nothing like talking face to face... or in our case, "Computer to computer."

Yes, technology has come a long way since phone cards, and now the computer program SKYPE allows us to call home at around 2 cents USD per minute - or free when you are calling a computer that is running the same program.  Ask anyone living abroad, and they will tell you that Skype becomes a way of life!  (You can download it yourself HERE.)

Tonight, Skype allowed us to call my sister in the Tri Cities area of Washington, and meet her new baby girl HADLEY SUE LINDERMANN!  

Moment You Never Forget in Life: When your baby sister has her own baby.  That means you are OLD.

It was so fun talking face to face with my parents, my sister Heather and her husband Chris, and of course, to meet our new niece Hadley.  It was a special moment to say the least... and I am incredibly proud of Chris & Heather.  Welcome to the fam, Hadley!

~ J. Twice

Croatia Journal: Day 2

After such a great first day in Croatia, I was wondering if the second could live up to my new high expectations I had for the country.  I didn't have to wait long to find out.  I awoke around 6:30 am to the sound of birds outside our window.  Light was streaming in, and I didn't want to wake anyone up, so I decided to go for a walk, which reminds me of another "Euro-travel tip": if you want to get a good feel for a city, take a walk early in the morning and watch it "wake up."  You will discover some amazing things. 

The Castle of Krk in the morning light - spectacular!

I followed the coastline for about 10 minutes towards the old town.  A handful of early risers were swimming, but other than them it was just me and the chirping birds.  I spent about an hour taking pictures (see first image on this blog), then made my way to the harbor where fishermen were returning with nets full of fish.  There was a small outdoor cafe - the only one open in the whole city at that hour, where about 20 men had gathered.  I had no idea what they were doing, other than just doing what old men do.  I joined them, ordering a cappuccino that cost me only .70 euro... what a great start to the day! 

Our first of two swimming holes in the morning

After breakfast we went to a small cove near our hotel to "take sun" and swim around.  The water was SO CLEAR!!!  I have never seen cleaner, clearer water... and I've seen a lot of water in my day!  (That is the old men from the cafe rubbing off on me.)  We enjoyed the sun until about noon, when we decided to pack up and head to the town of Baska 15 km away.  The beach there was far more commercial - a 2 km promenade followed the half-moon bay - but the water was equally as nice!

The "Copacabana" beach at Baska... not exactly the same as Rio, but very nice in its own right!

What the... is Michael Bolton in Croatia?!

Umbrellas... 

Those small little people - that's us!

At night, we cleaned up and headed into the city of Krk for another great dining experience.  This time it was fresh Sea Bass caught that day and served whole.  As I finished my meal, I said for the 100th time that day, "I love Croatia."

Christie in her Croatian Blue dress!

The Chorley Women looking Glam

This picture was too cute - had to post it!

Lynn enjoying her Sea Bass!

To end the evening, we found one of the most unique little bars I have ever encountered.  It was nothing more than the outside of the castle, lit by torches, next to the sea!  There were a few soft pads laid out over the rocks, and a small wooden bar selling just three choices: wine, beer, and Coke.  Five musicians held an accoustic jam session at the bottom of the rocks, and we soaked it in.  HVALA CROATIA!  (Thank you!) 

A perfect end to another perfect Croatian day...

~ J. Twice

Da Francesca - or, How to Eat Out in Croatia

Ristorante "Da Francesca" in Krk is what European dining is all about.

On our first night in Krk we had an experience that will stick with me for a long time, and is a perfect representative for why I love Europe -- and more specifically, what can happen if you open yourself up to new experiences & take the time to talk to the people you meet.

The serendipitous start of the night - shopping in shops with no names.

Upon entering the pedestrian only center of Krk, we were immediately charmed by its clean, white stone buildings and ancient alleyways.  Small shops and restaurants lined the main drag, most without a name on the door!  We allowed ourselves to wander off the beaten path, until we were in a small clothing store, that like the others, had no name.  Bright lights and soft music created a relaxed atmosphere, and I began chatting with the owner while Christie shopped for a dress.  When I asked about a good "local" place to eat, the owner's face lit up.  She was a girl in her mid-30s, and you could tell she had been in the city for a long time based on her casual dress and the way people in her shop treated her.  "I have been waiting for someone to ask me!" she said with enthusiasm, "You must eat at a brand new restaurant called 'da Francesca' - it only opened this week, and is run by a girl from Italy!"  My two years in Europe has taught me that if a local gives you such advice, you follow.  And boy were we glad we did! 

The inside patio at da Francesca.

We followed a hand-drawn map for a few blocks and ended up in front of the restaurant, which was advertised by a small wooden sign and candles everywhere.  The ambiance was apparent, even from the outside, and upon entering we were greeted by a friendly blond waitress who led us to a private outdoor patio.  We were the only patrons - which could be explained by our late dining time (9:30pm) and the fact that this place was brand new.  

Vino locale bianco, por favore.

Within a few minutes, we had been transported back to Italy.  We ordered our favorite beverage - vino locale bianco - which means "local white wine."  I must stop to make this point: local wines offered by Italian restaurants in Europe should NEVER be confused with "table wine" back home.  The vino locale typically comes from a nearby vineyard that has been making wine for generations, and ours at da Francesca was perfectly sweet and far-and-away better than a $20 bottle back home.

Perhaps it was the atmosphere - or maybe the vino - but I ordered our food in Italian which peaked the interest of our waitress.  From her facial expression, I gathered that English-speaking tourists rarely speak Italian... or try anything other than Spaghetti.  (For experiences like this - a little dabble with the local language goes MILES in opening doors!)  Ten minutes later we had learned - mostly in Italian - that she was from Palermo, had traveled extensively, and was very familiar with all of our favorite places in Sicily.  We explained that I was playing American football in Austria, but last year had lived for six months in Catania.  Next thing you know she was advising me on the homemade pesto and delivering a plate of sliced tomatoes drizzled in olive oil & balsamic vinegar!      

Homemade pesto tagliatelle with potato and asparagus... delicioso!

Vino!

Dessert: Homemade Tiramisu and Homemade Limoncello!

Our food was incredible, and tasted even better when mixed with the smell of the sea in the air on this warm summer evening.  For dessert, we were brought a homemade tiramisu, which melted in my mouth, along with the best limoncello I have ever tasted.  After many compliments, our waitress casually said to us, "If you like the food so much, would you like to meet Francesca?"  But of course! 

Posing with da Francesca herself

Francesca was incredibly friendly.  We learned from her that her father had renovated this building, and had created the area for the restaurant.  She had been running a restaurant back in Italy, but took the offer to come to Croatia when it became available.  She brings in all her ingredients from Italy - including lemons from Capri for the lemoncello!  It was so cool to meet her, and get a better understanding of the restaurant! 

Posing with fellow baller Alessandro

But perhaps the most interesting moment of the night came when we got to meet Francesca's husband, Alessandro.  When we told Francesca that I played American Football, she got a big smile... because it turns out that Alessandro was an American Football player in Italy!  He played defensive back for the Red Jackets Sarzano in Northern Italy - what a coincidence!!!  We shared stories, and laughed about how truly small the world is.  What a great end to a great night!

~ J. Twice

Croatia Journal: Day 1

Welcome to Croatia!  Or as the locals call it, "Hrvatska."

AN OPEN LETTER TO RYAN AIR, RENTAL CAR COMPANIES, AND ALL TRAVEL ADVISORS TO THE ENGLISH SPEAKING WORLD:

Continue to think that Croatia is unsafe.  Believe that it is not yet fully recovered from 10 years of Civil War.  Keep telling people that you shouldn't drive there, or that you won't insure cars that travel there.  Budget Airlines, don't bother offering cheap flights to this corner of the world.  You are much better sending people to over-developed stretches of beaches.  In other words... don't bother with Croatia!

This is truly my hope - because the Croatian coastline we discovered was simply a joy to visit.  Crowds were visibly absent.  The roads were some of the best we've driven on - and more freeways are being built as we speak.  And the water... don't even get me started on how crystal blue it is!!!   

Small "red-roof" villages dot the coastline in Northern Croatia.

The "Krcki Most" bridge is a 1 km long span that takes you onto the island of Krk.

We entered the country from Slovenia at its northern border, heading south towards the city of Rijeka.  It dawned on me that we reached the border on a small, two lane road from Slovenia - a member of the EU - and began driving on a brand new, modern highway in a nation that isn't a member of the EU!  Our first destination was the island of Krk, one of the largest islands along the Adriatic coast.  It's proximity to Rijeka and the rest of Europe has made it one of the most popular islands in Croatia, and at 38 km long, offers something for nearly everyone.

Small fishing boats remind you of Croatia's past - and of Paul Petritch.

We stopped along the first visible shoreline to walk around - there's just something about the sea.

This trip was probably one of my least planned trips to date.  We had not booked any hotels, nor decided where we would stay each day.  It made me a little nervous - but that was part of the adventure.  After stopping at a small stretch of coastline, we decided to head to the southern part of the island to escape the tourist crush.  What we found was one of the most peaceful, cool little cities I have found during my European travels: the city of Krk. 

Krk city harbor at sunset: Boats?  Check.  Old Town?  Check.  Tourists?  Nope!

Christie and her mom Lynn entering the old fortifications - the walls date back hundreds of years to a time when Venetians controlled the island.

Brilliant orange sky above a church.

We found a little hotel on the water - 30 euro per person per night - and set about exploring the town.  For some reason, there simply weren't hardly any American or British tourists.  I could only again say a little prayer of thanks that Ryan Air doesn't fly here!  If this city was on the Costa Del Sol in Spain, or along the southern coast of Portugal, or even across the water in Italy, it would be EXPLOITED with cheesy shops and commercialism.  Not that there isn't tourist activity in Krk - you can still take daily cruises from its harbor or eat at an over-priced harbor-front diner - but there is a general sense of tranquility and quiet that settled over the city that I found incredibly refreshing.

In fact, almost all our conversations with locals would begin with them addressing us in German!  Maybe we are starting to look Tirolean...

Christie and Lynn

Me & Christie

Seriously... POSTCARD?

~ J. Twice

BEYOND THE FIELD: Show 4 at Raiders.com

The 4th installment of BEYOND THE FIELD is airing live now on the Oakland Raider's website, raiders.com.  This show tells the story of WR Matt Epperson's journey from West Texas to Europe, along with Eurobowl Quarterfinals Highlights and a spotlight of the SWARCO Raiders' outstanding youth program.  Check it out now!

(And of course, GREAT JOB to CHRISTIE for another outstanding show!!!  Someone in the America should really hire her...)

~ J. Twice

Austrian Football Update

With the EuroBowl final still 3 weeks away, there is plenty of action here in Austria to keep us more than busy.  Here are the results from the first week of the playoffs:

AUSTRIAN FOOTBALL LEAGUE PLAYOFFS: Round 1

Danube Dragons 41, Carinthian Black Lions 35

Vienna Vikings 17, Hohenems Blue Devils 14

AFL SEMI-FINAL MATCHUPS

Vienna Vikings at SWARCO Raiders.

Saturday, June 27.  5pm local time

Danube Dragons at Graz Giants.

Sunday, June 28.  4pm local time

AUSTRIAN BOWL: July 18, 2009 @ GRAZ

For even more AFL action, here's the 5th installment of AFL Crush, the weekly show highlighting action from around the league!  (Includes highlights of SWARCO Raiders victories over Graz & Danube.)

AFL Crush Folge #5 - 2009 from AFL Crush on Vimeo.

~ J. Twice

EUROBOWL XXIII in INNSBRUCK!

Tivoli Stadium, Innsbruck - the site of Eurobowl XXIII

EUROBOWL XXIII

Paris Flash at SWARCO Raiders Tirol

Tivoli Stadium, Innsbruck

July 11, 2009.  8 pm (Austria)

It was just announced that the SWARCO Raiders have been awarded the hosts of Eurobowl XXIII!  The game will take place at Tivoli Stadium on July 11, 2009 at 8pm local Austria Time, and will have many special Gameday events taking place.  Stay tuned!  

Croatian Sensation

The past five days offered an incredible look inside one of Europe's most overlooked places: CROATIA.  Running for almost 1000 km along the Adriatic Sea, this Ex-Yugoslavia state is described by its tourism office as the "Mediterranean as it once was" - which, despite not being on the Mediterranean, is an apt description.  

Plitvicka Jezera - one of the wonders of the world and a must on any visit to Croatia.

The Croatia we discovered was in a way very representative of the country's interesting history.  Our journey was at first strikingly beautiful (sunny northern islands) then covered with dark clouds (ours were literal - as in a weekend storm - while the country's clouds are the well-known 10-year conflict that plagued the Balkans during the 90s.)  We began in the North, tracing the shore from Rjeka as we made our way south onto the beautiful island of Krk.  The brilliant blue color of the water immediately caught our attention, while the ancient city of Krk itself stole the show at night, offering an almost English-speaking tourist free zone of authentic local restaurants and laid back ambiance.  Here we dined on authentic Italian, learned a few Croatian words (Hvala = thank you), and enjoyed caught-that-day Sea Bass.  It was amazing.

After enjoying the aptly named "Copacabana" beach at Baska, we left Krk and headed down the mainland, catching a ferry to the island of Rab.  Here we bathed in the bath-tub warm waters of Lopar and spent the night dining under the stars in a city that dates back to before the birth of Christ.

Sunset over the city of Rab.

Over the weekend, a storm rolled in bringing with it sheets of rain that would close roads and end our time at the beach.  We headed south to the city of Zadar, where we found friendly locals, an English-speaking movie theatre (Angels and Demons gets two thumbs up!), and more Italian food.  It is as if people forget that Italy's neighbor across the water might be just as nice.

The city of Zadar offers ancient Roman monuments and designer shopping - something for everyone!

On our return journey north, we ventured off the beaten path to Plitvicka Jezera.  It sits just 1o minutes from the Bosnian border, and is a UNESCO Heritage site that in my opinion could vie for one of the seven wonders of the (natural) world.  It was a photographers dream.

Unfortunately, we were running around enjoying ourselves so much that I didn't have time to post my blog.  The brief moments I had in front of a computer were spent frantically getting the latest edition of BEYOND THE FIELD to the Oakland Raiders, which should be making an appearance on their site in the next 24 hours (featuring Matt Epperson and the youth program.)  Therefore, I'll spend the next few days bringing you all up to speed and sharing the many great photographs and stories from our trip.

~ J. Twice