Sunday, August 2, 2009

THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO: Part 1

The following blog posts will trace our journey along the famous "Camino de Santiago" in Northern Spain. The route is one that has been followed for thousands of years by countless people and for just as many different reasons, from spiritual pilgrimages to worldly adventures. It leads through magical countryside, through large towns, and provides an incredible and uniquely different experience.

I don´t have the time - or my Mac Laptop - to update nearly as much as I´d like, and it will be difficult to add pictures, but I just thought the following first few excerpts from my journal will give you all insight into this journey. ENJOY!!!

CURRENT LOCATION: LOS ARCOS, SPAIN
DAYS WALKED: 3
DISTANCE COVERED: 68.3 km


Day A: PAMPLONA, SPAIN

Today our Camino officially began at 4:02pm, or simply, the moment our last "responsibility" was finished - aka sending Christie´s immigration documents to the US Embassy in Vienna. While the necessary 3 weeks processing time occurs, we will be using the time to complete our Camino Adventure. It was a relief as our paper trail gave way to the real one, as we checked into the Albergue (pilgrims hostel) in Pamplona. This is where those doing the camino - actual pilgrims - stay. They range from small hostel type accommodations to large dorms, and we found this one to be very comfortable. There were spacious bunks, 8 laundry machines, 3 computers with skype - not exactly roughing it. I really hope my pen can capture the feeling in my heart, as it is full of anticipation. We feel a little guilty as we pass weary hikers who limp by after a tough trip through the Pyranese, as the most popular beginning point is 70 km away in tiny St. Jean de Port in France. Either way, we were excited to begin.

At 7:15pm there was a tri-lingual pilgrims blessing at the Catedral de Santa Maria, which is contrast to the towering Gothic structure was short and to the point. While not overly spiritual, it did alert me to the fact that our journey was truly beginning and we were being inducted into this New Society of the Nomadic, a progression of a thousand different motives and expereinces. I also found it ironic that inside the church there was the templar cross, the same exact one that is on a bracelet I bought in Croatia to commemorate a special experience there. Maybe it was there to reassure us that we are on the right path, despite all of our crazy adventures, and that this Camino is part of plan that will reveal our true missions in life, and what the next step holds for us. The service also left me with the unshakable feeling that this would make a great reality show nonetheless (and perhaps a new wrinkle on the whole Survivor series?) I better call Mark Burnette.

DAY 1: PAMPLONA TO PUENTA LA REINA. 23.1 km / 6.5 hours

We tossed and turned all night - I wasn´t interested in sleep. I was back to being 9 years old on the first day of school... so excited! At 5:45am Christie and I both woke up in our seemingly appropriate bunk beds and were ready to hit the road by 6:30! We followed the yellow arrows and Camino Shells, which are used to point out the triail, as it led us out of the historic center. Part of the route shared the same exact route that the "Running of the Bulls" takes place on. I thought this was again ironic to be starting our walk where a run begins. The air was cool on our skin, with only the first traces of daylight lighting our way. We passed an old fortress and the university and within a half hour were out of the city and into the quaint little village of Cizur Menor. Here we had a breakfast of bread, chorizo sausage, and cheese at 7am... not exactly American fare! The trail soon became a dirt path, leading through golden fields and sunflower patches as it headed towards a distant wind farm on a ridge that I would have only previously considered driving to. The modern triangle generators seemed an intyeresting contrast to the ideal of medieval pilgrimage, and by 10 had reached the summit, a point called the Alto De Perdon.

An hour later we had descended the last of the Pyranese foothills, stopping by a small fountain for one of the juiciest peaches of my life. I didn´t have to ask if it was organic, and that is a nice thing. As we sat and enjoyed the sun, a steady stream of backpack toting pilgrims continued on. Some were old, some were young, about evenly split between men and women. It was at this moment I wanted to jump up and beat them all to the next town, but silently I was reminded that the Camino is not a race - it is a journey. There is no medal for finishing first, but rather your only reward (other than perhaps a "get out of Catholic Pergatory Free" card) was your experience and what you learned from it.

At 1pm we reached the very humble Hostel Padres Reparadores in Puenta La Reina, and crashed onto our beds. We had walked 23 km in the hot sun, and yet felt great. This was indeed a unique experience.

DAY 2: PUENTA LA REINA TO ESTRELLA. 24 km / 47.1 TOTAL

DAY 3: ESTRELLA TO LOS ARCOS. 21.3 km / 68.4 TOTAL

J. Twice







DAY 1:

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