BUDA (Pest can wait)

The Parliament building in Pest was modeled exactly after the one in the UK, down to its exact riverfront location.

Around noon on Sunday our train pulled into our final destination, the Hungarian capital of Budapest.  At first glance the city was much larger than I anticipated, with a population of 1.9 million people.  It has been advertised as a similar destination as Prague, with an entrepreneurial spirit modernizing the city after its destruction in World War II, the Soviet invasion, and 40 years of communist rule.  What we found is that even though it freed itself from Communism 20 years ago, the city and the people itself are still struggling to come out from under that burden.  Let's just say that even though it gets 20 million visitors, upon arrival at the train station we knew we 'weren't in Kansas anymore.' 

Few people in the West realize that Budapest is actually composed of two cities separated by the Danube - BUDA and PEST.  They were officially combined in 1873.  Hilly Buda occupies the west side of the river with its characteristic old town and large buildings. Cosmopolitan Pest (pronounced by locals as 'Pesht') stretches out on the east side and offers are more urban experience.  With two days in the city, we decided to split our time evenly between the two separate districts, with Buda winning the flip for the first day.  

Crossing the Danube to head from Pest to Buda. 

Young love.

Our first stop was the Gellert Baths, one of the many luxurious "Turkish Style" public bath-houses in the city.  They were built between 1912 and 1918, although the use of the thermal baths on this spot had been used since the Middle Ages.  Gellert was recommended by a friend from the city, as well as being listed in the 1,000 Things to Do book, and dates a luxurious exterior with intricate marble and stone work.  I'm not sure what it is about Eastern Europeans and public bathing, but they absolutely love this stuff! (I rate our experience about a 7.5 out of 10, mainly because despite my attempts to really get into the whole thermal bath scene, all it really looked like was a glorified swimming pool.)

The Gellert Baths.

Is there any better way to wash away soreness the day after a game?

Possible Communist Torture Device #1: Carbon Acid Tub Bath.  Are they serious?

Possible Communist Torture Device #2: Hair Dryer.  (Or interrogation method?)

Swimming always kicks up an appetite, and there were a number of riverside patios back on the Pest side (with views of Buda, so it still counts) that seemed perfect.  We settled on the Jerney wine bar, although I really wanted to tell the owners that the correct spelling is with an O and U.   Margarita pizza and Caesar salad were the perfect afternoon snacks, while the local beer Sorponi was excellent.  I'm not really a beer guy, but on a hot afternoon it was, for the third time this paragraph, perfect. 

All smiles at Jerney...

Contemplating the universal debate: Taste Great or Less Filling?  Buda or Pest?

As always, dogs are encouraged!

Around dusk we crossed the Chain Bridge and headed up into the castle area of Buda.  There were the characteristic cobblestone streets and colorful buildings, although we found the caffes to be overpriced and a little touristy along the main drags.  I hate to say it, but I think we are getting spoiled with the number of places we have seen.  It was fun, although as I said at the beginning not anywhere as close to Prague for ambiance.  I think this mainly has to do with how spread out the city is - yes, there are many cool things to see but sandwiched in between are all the dreary, boring, communist-era buildings and the sore feet that come from traversing the hills. 

Old Town Buda

Orange buildings #1

Orange buildings #2

Parliament at dusk.

Although my pictures came out great from the Buda section, overall the city of Buda was a little underwhelming.  Yes, shocking for a positologist to say!  It was nice to look at, but as I said, it lacks the certain charm we were hoping to see.  We found the majority of people were not that friendly, perhaps a hold over from the many years of oppression and the tough economic times that followed.  Perhaps I would find it tomorrow in Pest?

~ J. Twice