Thursday, June 25, 2009

Croatia Journal: Day 1

Welcome to Croatia!  Or as the locals call it, "Hrvatska."

AN OPEN LETTER TO RYAN AIR, RENTAL CAR COMPANIES, AND ALL TRAVEL ADVISORS TO THE ENGLISH SPEAKING WORLD:

Continue to think that Croatia is unsafe.  Believe that it is not yet fully recovered from 10 years of Civil War.  Keep telling people that you shouldn't drive there, or that you won't insure cars that travel there.  Budget Airlines, don't bother offering cheap flights to this corner of the world.  You are much better sending people to over-developed stretches of beaches.  In other words... don't bother with Croatia!

This is truly my hope - because the Croatian coastline we discovered was simply a joy to visit.  Crowds were visibly absent.  The roads were some of the best we've driven on - and more freeways are being built as we speak.  And the water... don't even get me started on how crystal blue it is!!!   

Small "red-roof" villages dot the coastline in Northern Croatia.

The "Krcki Most" bridge is a 1 km long span that takes you onto the island of Krk.

We entered the country from Slovenia at its northern border, heading south towards the city of Rijeka.  It dawned on me that we reached the border on a small, two lane road from Slovenia - a member of the EU - and began driving on a brand new, modern highway in a nation that isn't a member of the EU!  Our first destination was the island of Krk, one of the largest islands along the Adriatic coast.  It's proximity to Rijeka and the rest of Europe has made it one of the most popular islands in Croatia, and at 38 km long, offers something for nearly everyone.

Small fishing boats remind you of Croatia's past - and of Paul Petritch.

We stopped along the first visible shoreline to walk around - there's just something about the sea.

This trip was probably one of my least planned trips to date.  We had not booked any hotels, nor decided where we would stay each day.  It made me a little nervous - but that was part of the adventure.  After stopping at a small stretch of coastline, we decided to head to the southern part of the island to escape the tourist crush.  What we found was one of the most peaceful, cool little cities I have found during my European travels: the city of Krk. 

Krk city harbor at sunset: Boats?  Check.  Old Town?  Check.  Tourists?  Nope!

Christie and her mom Lynn entering the old fortifications - the walls date back hundreds of years to a time when Venetians controlled the island.

Brilliant orange sky above a church.

We found a little hotel on the water - 30 euro per person per night - and set about exploring the town.  For some reason, there simply weren't hardly any American or British tourists.  I could only again say a little prayer of thanks that Ryan Air doesn't fly here!  If this city was on the Costa Del Sol in Spain, or along the southern coast of Portugal, or even across the water in Italy, it would be EXPLOITED with cheesy shops and commercialism.  Not that there isn't tourist activity in Krk - you can still take daily cruises from its harbor or eat at an over-priced harbor-front diner - but there is a general sense of tranquility and quiet that settled over the city that I found incredibly refreshing.

In fact, almost all our conversations with locals would begin with them addressing us in German!  Maybe we are starting to look Tirolean...

Christie and Lynn

Me & Christie

Seriously... POSTCARD?

~ J. Twice

No comments: