Friday, June 26, 2009

Da Francesca - or, How to Eat Out in Croatia

Ristorante "Da Francesca" in Krk is what European dining is all about.

On our first night in Krk we had an experience that will stick with me for a long time, and is a perfect representative for why I love Europe -- and more specifically, what can happen if you open yourself up to new experiences & take the time to talk to the people you meet.

The serendipitous start of the night - shopping in shops with no names.

Upon entering the pedestrian only center of Krk, we were immediately charmed by its clean, white stone buildings and ancient alleyways.  Small shops and restaurants lined the main drag, most without a name on the door!  We allowed ourselves to wander off the beaten path, until we were in a small clothing store, that like the others, had no name.  Bright lights and soft music created a relaxed atmosphere, and I began chatting with the owner while Christie shopped for a dress.  When I asked about a good "local" place to eat, the owner's face lit up.  She was a girl in her mid-30s, and you could tell she had been in the city for a long time based on her casual dress and the way people in her shop treated her.  "I have been waiting for someone to ask me!" she said with enthusiasm, "You must eat at a brand new restaurant called 'da Francesca' - it only opened this week, and is run by a girl from Italy!"  My two years in Europe has taught me that if a local gives you such advice, you follow.  And boy were we glad we did! 

The inside patio at da Francesca.

We followed a hand-drawn map for a few blocks and ended up in front of the restaurant, which was advertised by a small wooden sign and candles everywhere.  The ambiance was apparent, even from the outside, and upon entering we were greeted by a friendly blond waitress who led us to a private outdoor patio.  We were the only patrons - which could be explained by our late dining time (9:30pm) and the fact that this place was brand new.  

Vino locale bianco, por favore.

Within a few minutes, we had been transported back to Italy.  We ordered our favorite beverage - vino locale bianco - which means "local white wine."  I must stop to make this point: local wines offered by Italian restaurants in Europe should NEVER be confused with "table wine" back home.  The vino locale typically comes from a nearby vineyard that has been making wine for generations, and ours at da Francesca was perfectly sweet and far-and-away better than a $20 bottle back home.

Perhaps it was the atmosphere - or maybe the vino - but I ordered our food in Italian which peaked the interest of our waitress.  From her facial expression, I gathered that English-speaking tourists rarely speak Italian... or try anything other than Spaghetti.  (For experiences like this - a little dabble with the local language goes MILES in opening doors!)  Ten minutes later we had learned - mostly in Italian - that she was from Palermo, had traveled extensively, and was very familiar with all of our favorite places in Sicily.  We explained that I was playing American football in Austria, but last year had lived for six months in Catania.  Next thing you know she was advising me on the homemade pesto and delivering a plate of sliced tomatoes drizzled in olive oil & balsamic vinegar!      

Homemade pesto tagliatelle with potato and asparagus... delicioso!

Vino!

Dessert: Homemade Tiramisu and Homemade Limoncello!

Our food was incredible, and tasted even better when mixed with the smell of the sea in the air on this warm summer evening.  For dessert, we were brought a homemade tiramisu, which melted in my mouth, along with the best limoncello I have ever tasted.  After many compliments, our waitress casually said to us, "If you like the food so much, would you like to meet Francesca?"  But of course! 

Posing with da Francesca herself

Francesca was incredibly friendly.  We learned from her that her father had renovated this building, and had created the area for the restaurant.  She had been running a restaurant back in Italy, but took the offer to come to Croatia when it became available.  She brings in all her ingredients from Italy - including lemons from Capri for the lemoncello!  It was so cool to meet her, and get a better understanding of the restaurant! 

Posing with fellow baller Alessandro

But perhaps the most interesting moment of the night came when we got to meet Francesca's husband, Alessandro.  When we told Francesca that I played American Football, she got a big smile... because it turns out that Alessandro was an American Football player in Italy!  He played defensive back for the Red Jackets Sarzano in Northern Italy - what a coincidence!!!  We shared stories, and laughed about how truly small the world is.  What a great end to a great night!

~ J. Twice

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