The imposing fortress of Salzburg sits watch over the town and basically prevented it from being attacked for over a thousand years.
On Thursday, we headed east for a day trip to the city of Salzburg. In tow was Duke's wife Rita, who has been visiting for the week. Unfortunately Duke wasn't able to join us, due to game preparations, so we acted as the tour guides for his easy-going better half. Christie and I had never been to the City of Salt, so we were excited to take a look around and see if it really was 'forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and the Sound of Music.'
As a primer, Salzburg sits just a few miles from the German border in northern Austria, just an hour or so from Munich and an hour & a half from Innsbruck. It is described by our trusty guide Rick Steves as "a museum city with class" boasting a "charmingly preserved old town, splendid gardens, Baroque churches, and Europe's largest intact medieval fortress." Most people only remember Mozart and for the Americans, the Sound of Music, but the city actually has quite a history. Around 700 AD, Bavaria gave Salzburg to a Bishop Rupert because he promised to Christianize the area. (Hence the churches.) He also built the big fortress, and thanks in part to that it remained an independent state until Napoleon came knocking (about 1800 - they politely surrendered.) World War II took its toll on the city, but luckily most of the old town remains, making it feel made for tourism.
What is more cooler than doing a sweet air guitar move in mid-air? Doing a sweet air guitar move in mid-air OFF THE MOZART STATUE!
We began our tour on the edge of the old town at Mozartplatz (Mozart's square.) The only attraction here is the statue, erected in 1852, to the town's #1 hero, patron saint, mascot, and composer, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozrt. Mozart spent much of his first 25 years here in the city, and I believe there is a current petition for the town to change its website address to www.mozart.com/salzburg. They love him here!
Like the movie Spaceballs, there is all kinds of Mozart merchandising opportunities (although I did not see Mozart the Flame-thrower.) Pictured here is Mozart cologne, for when you want to smell like a 18th century composer.
After cruising past Mozartplatz, we headed towards the large cathedral, or Dom zu Salzburg as it is known. It is the largest and most impressive building in a very large and impressive downtown core. The cathedral was one of the first Baroque buildings north of the Alps, and the city itself claims to be the 'grandest Baroque city north of the Alps.' The site itself has a long history - the first church here was built in 774, the current one went up in 1628 (after a fire destroyed the old one), and in 1959 the dome you see today was reconstructed after a WWII bomb went through the dome. The stucco work on the ceiling is incredible (done by a Milan artist) and the four massive organs I imagine would blow you away. Not surprising, Mozart himself was the organist here for two years!
The beautiful baroque Cathedral of Salzburg.
The rest of the old town - luckily spared by World War II bombings - is a treat to enjoy. There are all sorts of interesting things to see, such as Italian inspired fountains, horse drawn carriages, life-sized chess games, beautiful buildings, and quaint shops. It had a vibe that was somewhat between Innsbruck and Vienna, which is fitting because geographically that's exactly where it sits. While the cold weather limited the number of patio opportunites, I imagine this would be a tourist's dream in the summer.
Christie met a couple new friends.
Just another normal park square with two men locked in an intense mental battle of chess using life-size pieces next to a huge gold orb beneath a thousand year old fortress.
In front of Mozart's birthplace. Inside there's a museum, but the more interesting one is apparently across the river at his main residenz (we're not quite the museum-going type.) The cool part about the building is that there is now a gelato shop on the ground floor! Mozart (if he's anything like me) would be proud!
Easter Eggs - aka normal eggs with food coloring - are EVERYWHERE here... I'm wondering if that is a season thing or can we enjoy multi-colored goodness here year-round?
Eventually it was time to grab some lunch, which in Bavaria (if you want something quick) means BOSNA! Bosna is essentially a glorified hot-dog, with a toasted bun and a secret sauce. Rumor has it the secret sauce is a mixture of mayonnaise and ketchup. The majority will also have grilled onions and sometimes curry... making it one bad mamma-jamma. Rick Steves suggested the Bosna Grill, and it definitely lived up to the hype. It has been in business for over 55 years, and is run by a friendly woman who goes by the name "Frau Ebner." I called her FRAU BOSNA and she gave me a big smile!
Nothing like the first bite...
... Frau Bosna (Ebner) making the magic happen.
Rita became a fast believer! She even picked up one for the Duke!
As a side note, I should tell you that only tourists put the meat in the bun like a hot-dog. (Bosna grill is a tourist spot so they pretty much do it on everything.) If you ever find yourself at a local joint, your bread and sausage will be served separately. Act cool, and munch on them one at a time, alternating like a native. The darker the color, the spicier the sausage. Any more brain busters?
What more could a girl want?
Of course, a Bosna does not constitute an entire Bavarian meal. With this in mind, we walked deeper into the old town, soon reaching Universitatsplatz. It is a rectangle-shaped square with four story buildings on each side. But the magic is in the middle, where Salzburg's busiest open air market is held. Here you can find local produce (almost all of it organic), cheese, meat, and most importantly, pretzels. The giant pretzels in this market come in a dozen flavors, but only one size - LARGE! One chocolate and one sugar covered pretzel were the perfect way to, as one local puts it, "Close our stomachs."
Double Fisting!
With our stomachs full, the girls had their hearts set on doing a little shopping. Lucky for us, the best street in Salzburg was just a few feet away: the Getreidegasse. It has been the old town's main drag for centuries, and is famous for its old wrought-iron signs. The funny thing is seeing one say "Louis Vuitton" or "McDonald's." Not much has changed since Mozart's day (his birthplace is on this street) and it is a perfect place for people watching. There are plenty of jewelry shops along the street as well, many of which lived up to their German name, "Schmuck."
The Getreidegasse looking West...
... and looking East.
Afterwards we hopped in the car and headed for a quick drive around the city, ending up at a beautiful bluff just west of the old town. Of course I had my camera, so I took a few pics!
The city of Salzburg (old town on the right, new on the left.)
The 3 amigos of Salzburg.
Coincidentally (or not) our photo-session of the city left us immediately next to the Augustina Brau Monastery/Brewery. I say monastery in a loose sense, as its more of a business with the monks making the beer. Always one for life experiences, I led our weary soldiers to the door and down a number of dark passageways to the 1,000 seat beer garden. It supposedly opens at 3pm, and by the time of our arrival at 3:15 it was packed with locals. The waiters don't bring food - instead there are a bunch of authentic kiosks and deli counters where you can assemble your own meal and bring it in picnic style. It was awesome!
With our first game just two days away, I enjoyed a Coke while Christie introduced herself to a table full of locals. Rita enjoyed a glass of Salzburg's finest beer, and soaked in the atmosphere. Our experience in Salzburg was a lot like our time at Augustina Brau - we only got a sip but now want to experience a lot more!
~ J. Twice
