Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Taverna da Guzzi

A wood fire pizza oven welcomes visitors to 'Taverna da Guzzi,' an incredible discovery in the neighboring village of Birgitz.

There is a distinctly different culture in Austria as compared to Italy when one considers dining out.  In Italy, dinners are late - most ristorantes do not even think about opening their doors until 8 or 8:30.  On the other hand, at the same time on a rainy Monday in the rural town of Gotzens outside of Innsbruck, one would be lucky to find a single light on in town.  So began our search last night for a dinner location at the late hour of 7:45.  And like always, there is a story.

Joining Christie and I on this night were the two new additions to the Swarco Raiders, defensive back Alexander Hoad and wide receiver Matt Epperson.  It was the first night we were all together here in Austria, so we thought we would celebrate by enjoying a meal together.  We met at the only local landmark - the big church - and headed to Binis, a trendy bar at the Art Hotel.  Unfortunately, they were only serving pretzels.  We retraced our steps and inquired at a smaller restaurant - but they were closed after 8.  The manager told us to try a few hundred meters ahead.  The rain was increasing, so we walked briskly in the darkness, doing our best to stay dry.  The spot they spoke of was also closed, as were the next two restaurants we passed.  I threw my hands in the air... WERE WE EVER GOING TO EAT TONIGHT?

In the distance... a church... were we finally getting close to food?

Finally, a local shopkeeper smoking a big pipe told us that our only option was to leave Gotzens, walk east for 1 kilometer into the town of Birgitz, and turn at the big church.  He said it all in German, but my hunger gave me a heightened sense of awareness and allowed me to translate those speaking in tongues.  I was also starting to think that every town here has 'the big church' as its sole major landmark.  We did as we were told and headed toward "the light."
    
Heaven?  No, just Guzzi.

Just as predicted, our 45 minute rain-drenched Odyssey came to an end when we made a right at the local church and found a bustling, well-decorated Italian restaurant.  It's name was "Ristorante Taverna da Guzzi," and the words almost glowed in the darkness like the gate to heaven.  The moment we opened the door the smell of garlic and rich sauces filled the air.  The tables were packed with people, an incredible contrast to the last hour wondering in the rain, as if we had just uncovered the door to Fraggle Rock.  We immediately were seated in the corner, and I knew the night had taken a turn for the better.  

SIGN #1 YOU ARE NOT IN ITALY: Your restaurant offers free water in a carafe!

Tagliatelle con Pollo, described as "mit gebratenem Hühnerfleisch und Broccoli in Rahmsauce mit Parmesan im Ofen überbacken"  on the menu, was an incredible pasta dish with long noodles, a sweet white sauce, large chicken strips, broccoli, and melted parmesan cheese, all cooked together and finished in the wood-burning oven.

Our dining experience was incredible, especially considering that by the time we reached the restaurant we would have all settled for a piece of bread and a Coke.  The pizza was authentic, with Matt bringing back nostalgia of Jonica's with his Parma topped with Prosciutto.  The rest of us went with pasta, bringing to light another difference of Italian food outside of Italy: inside the country, pasta is only served as a "primi piatti" or first course, and the size is very small so you are not full for the rest of your meal.  Outside of Italy, like in America or here in Austria, the pasta is a generous portion that makes a whole meal.  Our three selections were incredible - homemade lasagna, penne arrabiata (spicy sauce), and the aforementioned tagliatelle.  Delicioso!  

Alex acting like a tough-guy with his lasagna.  Like my wife, he is Canadian, so while Matt & I got all caught-up, they were able to discuss Canadian things like dog sledding, igloos, and Tim Horton's.

An important event: the 2009 Swarco Raiders Offensive Playbook Presentation to Matt Epperson.

But the real reason for this blog post is not the incredible food, interesting method of discovery, or authentic ambiance of Taverna da Guzzi.  Instead, it is again the people of Austria that make the difference.  After dinner, I stopped what appeared to be the owner of the restaurant to introduce myself.  His name was Yusuf, and he had an incredible energy as he managed both the staff & patrons of the restaurant.  He was very friendly, and actually stopped what he was doing to join us at the table!

He sat with us for the next half hour, until everyone else had left.  During that time, he told us how he started this restaurant, and many incredible things, such as the fact that he DRIVES TO ITALY EVERYDAY TO PICKOUT HIS INGREDIENTS!

NOTE TO SELF: WHENEVER THE OWNER OF AN ITALIAN RESTAURANT DRIVES TO ITALY DAILY TO PICK OUT INGREDIENTS, YOU ARE IN FOR A FANTASTIC MEAL.

He went on to explain his theory behind the pizzas, sauces, and breads, and told us that every Wednesday, all pizzas are only 5 Euro!  You will be sure we will be back!  

Posing with my new main man, owner Yusuf Aksoy of Taverna da Guzzi.

We also learned that Yusuf was well-traveled, having taken many trips to the United States, including visits to Las Vegas, California, and Maui.  He also participates in a local (crazy) sport of mountain hiking, where one puts on skis and hikes directly UP the mountain.  I gave him Paul Petrich's number in case he ever comes to the area.

Before long he offered us a digestivo, then offered to give us a ride home while pointing out local places of interest... would this ever happen in the US?  It made me think: 

WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD WOULD THE OWNER OF A RESTAURANT SIT DOWN WITH YOU, OFFER YOU A WELCOME SHOT OF LOCAL SCHNAPPS, THEN DRIVE YOU HOME?  ONLY IN AUSTRIA!

~ J. Twice

If you go:

Ristorante Taverna da Guzzi
Dorfplatz 2
A-6092 Birgitz, Austria
(P) +43 5234 / 32501

1 comment:

Kevin Gantz said...

That's awesome! Thanks for taking care of Matt (my nephew). We will be checking back in again often to keep up on the never-ending-story!