Barcelona: Let's get ready to Ramble!

Las Ramblas runs for over a mile down the heart of the city, from the central Plaza de Catalunya to the Harbor Front.

Late Sunday night we arrived into Barcelona, and less than 24 hours later it is already one of my favorite big cities in the world.  (However, as a quick editors note: BE CAREFUL when flying in Europe on Budget Airlines -- our flight from Milan on Ryan Air, Europe's cheapest carrier, delivered us to an airport 100 km from Barcelona!  After taking an hour-long bus ride into the city, we now know not to assume that 'Barcelona' on your ticket actually is... just be sure to cross-check your ticket with the 3 letter airport code of a city's major hub, like LHR for London Heathrow, etc...)

Travel inconveniences aside, we awoke to a bright sunny morning in Barcelona that set the tone for a great day.  Barcelona is very similar in layout to Los Angeles - sprawling urban grid underneath the sun and sandwiched between the beach and the mountains.  However, the heart of the city is near the water, with the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) housing tiny streets filled with shops and restaurants around a grand cathedral, the Eixample District just uptown with designer clothing stores and chic tapas restaurants, and its main artery Las Ramblas running from the bottom of the Eixample from Plaza de Catalunya (the central point in the town) down to the water.

If Barcelona could be summed up in a word, it might be Ergonomic.  It is the best example I have come across of blending the natural world with urban design.  Here the gas lamps have an eery resemblance to the trees above them. 

For 1.2 tree-lined miles, Las Ramblas is an incredible mix of locals and tourists - all darting around with eyes wide open.  It could be the Super Bowl of People-Watching.  On Las Ramblas, street performers catch the eye ever 50 yards, cool cafes offer inviting concoctions, warm rays of the sun sneak through the overhanging trees, and everyone seems to play a role in this real-time drama.  The name Rambla in both Catalan & Spanish means "Flowing Water," the plural form Ramblas comes from the many small sections (such as those selling flowers, birds, artwork, etc...) that make up the Grand Boulevard.  Here the people are the river... all riding the wave of Barcelona life past the Highs (Grand Opera Houses & Lively Markets) and Lows (Picketpockets and Thieves).

I think the Spanish Poet Frederico Garcia Lorca summed it up best when he said, "Las Ramblas is the only street in the world which I wish would never end."  We couldn't agree more. 

Christie finds a soulmate on Las Ramblas.

Ducking into a side street of Barri Gothic - these are the same roads used hundreds of years ago by the Romans and later the Moors.

The Bright Paintings for sale were more impressive than almost anything I've seen in a gallery to date.  Tomorrow: The Picasso Museum!

~ J. Twice

La Boqueria Market

Welcome to the world of fruit!

The market entrance, bustling with people at midday... just as it has for over 800 years.

About halfway down the Ramblas lies "La Boqueria" - an outdoor produce market selling everything under the sun.  While its specialties are fruit stands, juice, meat, and cheese - it can best be described as "Pike's Place Market in Seattle on STEROIDS."

The history of the market is quite fascinating, as first mention of the "Boqueria Market" dates all the way back to 1217!  At that time, tables were installed near the old door of the city to sell meat, and thanks to more history books, in December 1470 pigs were also sold at that site.  (That's 22 years before Columbus even set sail towards The New World!)  In 1826 the market was legally recognized, and official construction for today's market began a few years later.  The current roof was built in 1914, and it is said that Gaudi, the famous architect who designed many of Barcelona's whimsical buildings, often wandered the rows of the market looking for inspiration.

What we found was as epic as just described - rows and rows of amazing fruit displays, fresh juice in every flavor, fish, meat, chocolate, coffee - you name it, it is sold in the market.  However, do not expect to find any 'tourist' shops here... perhaps the most refreshing thing about the market was not having to walk past rows of cheap goods and plastic snowglobes... just pure, natural foods.

Stacked peas become art in the market.

These strawberries look to good to eat!

Bright Red Peppers hang from the booths as you walk by.

After 20 mouthwatering minutes, we purchased some fresh squeezed juice that was perhaps the best I've ever tasted.  I went with the Strawberry-Banana while Christie tried Mango-Papaya.

When it hits your lips... so good.

If you are ever traveling in Barcelona - I suggest you make this one of your late morning stops for either a snack or to load up for a waterfront picnic.  But don't bring your Visa - this is Cash only here!

~ J. Twice

New Mascot Found!

Posing with our new mascot, Senore Elefanti.

While walking down The Ramblas in Barcelona, we were EXTREMELY FORTUNATE to bump into a new potential Catania Elephants mascot -- who we have named, "Senore Elefanti."  

Painted Silver to match the fierce looking Elephant he rides, Senore Elefanti will be crucial to our success at home games this year, as he is intimidating yet friendly at the same time.

He currently lives in Barcelona, working on The Ramblas each day for tips -- as those who pass by put money into his hat.  During initial negotiations with him, I was informed that he is available to move to Catania and help our team, however there is one major sticking point:

He will only come to life and help cheer when people throw a Euro into his hat.  That might be hard to do all the way from the stands.

Also, I'm not sure how 'family friendly' he is, and if it is safe to have him around Children.  Other than that -- I think he is a perfect fit!  Please let me know if you agree!

 

Christie's turn with the mascot... we feel that he will fit right in with the Elefanti and drastically raise crowd interaction during games.  The only problem is that he might only help cheer when someone gives him a Euro.

~ J. Twice

Idyllic Lake Como

My most scenic cappuccino yet - this time at beautiful Lake Como.

The day after the emotional high and physical demands of our first game, we headed to Lake Como, an "idyllic" alpine lake slicing through the foothills of the Alps about 50 km north of Milan to seek some 'serenity.'  Home to George Clooney and the 'real' Bellagio, we knew Lago di Como (as the locals call it) was going to be something special.  However what we found exceeded all of our expecations -- bright blue water, green mountains, and pastel towns with red tile roofs.

Christie and her mom lakeside.

Scenic Varenna.

After grabbing breakfast (scrambled eggs for the first time in months!), we took the 9:15am train out of Milan Centrale Station, arriving at the sleepy, quaint seaside town of Varenna just after 10am.  The best way to describe Varenna is to close your eyes and imagine any watercolor painting of a cute Italian lakeside village... cobblestone streets, promenade patios, and old sailboats.  We strolled through the town and had a cup of cappuccino by the water.  What I quickly found out is that you measure the quality of your day on the lake by "number of patios frequented."  (By 2:15 in the afternoon we were already at 3!)

Beautiful Lake Como.

We then caught the ferry across the lake to the town of Bellagio -- the inspiration for the famous Las Vegas Casino of the same name.  If Varenna is lakeside living at its most relaxed, than Bellagio is living at its most refined.  Upscale shops line perfect streets, beautiful couples casually stroll with Louis Vuitton bags, and flowers bloom 365 days per year.  We did our best to fit in, however, I just didn't bring my leather pants on this trip.

The shore of Bellagio, the inspiration for my favorite Casino.

Our third and final patio of the day.

This sign says it all...

After a beautiful afternoon, it was time to depart and we sadly got on the ferry to leave.  We did, however, take with us a little of the relaxed spirit that time in Lake Como will provide.  Now it's off to Barcelona!

Signing off from Lake Como... Arrividerci!

~ J. Twice

Elephants Beat Milan

Very happy to have survived the shoot-out... and tired!

If every game is like this, the 2008 Italian Football Season is going to be unbelievable.

In stunning fashion, we opened the season with a stunning 47-40 road victory over the Milan Rhinos in our IFL Series A debut.  And like all good things in life, it didn’t come easy.

Facing Milan – a very experienced opponent with a good quarterback, John Stocco from Wisconsin, and a strong running back – we knew we were in a for a challenge.  However, there were also a number of off the field challenges that our team proudly overcame.

First, we had a long day of travel before the game – waking up at 4am to catch the flight and later bus connection to the game.  But much more importantly, we were traveling without our head coach Davide whose wife has been in labor for the past 2 days with their first child.  It was the first game Davide would have to miss in 15 years, and I know he was dying to be with us… yet obviously his wife Daniela and family comes first and we all were cheering them on!  

In a joyful moment, we received the good news to our lockerroom just an hour before kickoff – the latest member of the Elephant Family, Alessandro Guiliano had been born – and the team cheered loudly!

We took the field under glorious conditions – bright blue skies and 75 degree weather.  The stadium itself is a “velodrome” built for cycling, and has hard Astroturf that isn’t afraid to dish out its own punishment in the form of ‘turf-burns.’

 

Milan received the opening kickoff, and immediately drove for a touchdown.  We answered on our first drive – and the pace was set for a classic ‘shoot-out.’  In fact, as the game wore on I had the feeling that I was playing more of an Arena-style game than a normal American-rules game.  They scored on their next two possessions and took a 20-6 lead.

However, our players were very determined and did not let any adversity get them down.  We came roaring back, scoring three consecutive touchdowns to take a 28-20 halftime lead.  Luckily, we had ‘deferred’ after winning the coin toss that began the game, and got the ball again to start the second half.  We scored on our opening drive of the second half, which finally gave us a little breathing room… however their high-powered offense would not go down without a fight, and we spent the third quarter and beginning of the fourth quarter exchanging touchdowns.

 

Matt Epperson was spectacular all day long, making a pair of leaping grabs in traffic during crucial situations, while darting all over the field on both Special Teams and Defense.  In fact, all of our wide receivers contributed in a big way – with Matt, Iacopo, and Greg all catching great touchdowns and everyone else making important catches.  However, in my opinion the players of the game were our OFFENSIVE LINE and our RUNNING BACK, Enrico Lombardo.  As Milan started dropping more defenders to stop our passing attack, our running game took over… with Brandon, Mathieu, Guilio, Gilberto, and Alessandro opening up big holes.  I was most proud of Alessandro (fittingly, with the birth of Davide’s son!), who is a young player and had never really played much before in a big game like this… and with Davide out of the lineup, and our new German lineman, Franky, out with food poisoning, he had to step in and did a fantastic job.

Our "reluctant" head-coach-for-a-day George calling out instructions to the defense.  George will officially retire as an Italian Head coach with a perfect record, 1-0.

Yet in a game that would produce 87 points, it was our defense that made the big play to seal the win.  Clinging to a 47-40 lead with just two minutes to play, Milan had one last chance to tie the game.  On a third down play at midfield, Stocco dropped back and fired a long pass down our sidelines to his favorite target, but stepping in front of the ball was our cornerback, Massimo “Chipolata” (call me SMITH!), for the biggest play of his career.  We all mobbed him, and then took a knee to run out the clock.

 

It was an unbelievable game, as I have mentioned, and as I told an Italian TV reporter in my post-game interview, “If every game is like this, this will be a season I will never forget.”

 

And even more important than the scoreboard, it was great to see our team “grow up” in the course of 48 minutes, all while having a BLAST playing the beautiful game of Football. 

 

It was also great to have family at the game – as Christie’s mother Lynn and her friend Wayne came all the way to Italy to watch this game!  (Oh yeah, and see all of Italy on a 3 week trip.)  Playing football is such a family “experience” – and to get to laugh and share a meal after the game made me feel like I was right back at Joey Tomato’s in Edmonton (our post game spot back home.)

With a bye week, Christie and I are now headed to Barcelona and Venice… however I really could just sleep for 6 straight days after a game like that… and after not being “hit” for over a year, might be a little sore tomorrow!

~ J. Twice 

GAMETIME!

The day has finally arrived... GAMEDAY!!!

By the time most of you will have read this, we will be boarding a plane for our first game of the season, on the road against the Milan Rhinos.

We are all very excited to begin playing games and officially start the adventure of the 2008 season.  We have practiced hard, prepared diligently, and are ready to go.

Milan is an experienced team, and will be a great challenge.  Look for highlights and results on Sunday!

Finally Playing for Pizza,

J. Twice

  

Art can be fun...

Our Visit to the Vatican Museum was absolutely fascinating, and opened my eyes to many intriguing stories that I had no idea of before.  While ART in a book is just another picture or statue, when you know the story behind it you start to realize how interesting it can be.  In fact, while "They" (Who are THEY and why do THEY get to be the experts, anyways?) say you should read about the history of an area before you visit, so that it comes to life... I am finding the opposite to be true - my visits have made me want to read more NOW that I have seen places like Versailles, the Vatican, and the Colosseum.

That being said, here's a number of "funny" statues and stories that I found on my trip to the Vatican that I thought could be of interest:

The subject of the statue on the right is unknown... but I think it has an uncanny resemblance to Bill Clinton.

This tapestry, one of over 20 commissioned to be done by Raphael (the artist, not the Ninja Turtle), is of Jesus' resurrection and coming out of the tomb.  The crazy thing about this tapestry is that Jesus' eyes FOLLOW YOU as you walk by.  Of course, I did it 8 times to be sure, and it absolutely blows your mind.  Too bad Raphael died at the age of 36 from Syphilis. 

What is this?  If you guessed Roman Bath, like me, than you would be wrong.  The was a pagan burial tomb used before Rome became an empire.  They would put the body inside this and close the lid, and then the holes in the bottom (not pictured) would allow worms to crawl inside and eat the flesh.  Anyone want to go have breakfast now?

Speaking of Baths - this was Nero's.  It is made out of a now extinct RED MARBLE, that is valued somewhere between $11,000 and $100,000... PER SQUARE INCH!!!  That makes this, umm, really expensive.  The Vatican owns 90% of the Red Marble in the World... and Bill Gates owns the other 10%.

This authentic statue is from Greece in the 3rd century BC.  Yes, I know his body is very similar to mine... however the thing that stuck out in me is how they could make MOTION in the marble.  Michaelangelo (also not just a Ninja Turtle) was fascinated by this sculpture and used it as an inspiration while doing the bodies on the Sistine Chapel.

Yes, we hear you yelling!  Calm down!

Notice anything different about this statue?  Yep, glass eyes... kinda spooky, but apparently back "in the day" all the statues had eyes.  That makes walking through the Vatican at night extra scary to me.

This is a Bronze 5th Century Statue of Jose Conseco.  It is amazing that an artist that early would know both the dimensions of a baseball bat (not invented until the 1800s) and that Jose would take steroids.  Our guide corrected me that this was actually Hercules, but I told her that it we should just "agree to disagree."

Last but not least, the Goddess Diana.  (Weird all these would be in a Christian Musuem?)  She was the goddess of (you guessed it again!) FERTILITY.  Insert own sarcastic comment here: ____________.  

~ J. Twice

ROME BLITZ

The Sistine Chapel is a jaw-dropping experience and definitely one of the highlights of the trip.  Michaelangelo spent 4 years painting the entire ceiling and then later added the "The Last Judgment" above the alter.

Our last stop on our weekend adventure was a 24 hour stay in Rome that was absolutely incredible.  While Rome has been sacked many times (that is also a football term), we gave it the BLITZ and saw all the sights around the city in a little less than a day.  With happy hearts and sore feet, we returned to Catania late on Wednesday to begin preparation for our first game this weekend in Milan.

Of note, we saw the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum, and the Vatican.  I was blown away by our Vatican Museum tour, and will be sure to post all the interesting things I learned tomorrow.

Until then, enjoy the pics and arrividerci!

~ J. Twice

One of the long hallways in the Vatican Museum.  It is said that if you spent 60 seconds looking at every piece in the Museum, it would take you 12 years to see everything!

Christie inside the Pantheon.  A Roman Proverb states that if you come to Rome and do not visit the Pantheon, you "go and return an ass."  Not my words, but I completely agree.

  

The Colosseum... site of UFC -458. 

Christie could have fought dogs and won via petting.

The Colosseum is stunning from any angle. 

 

George's favorite fountain.

Our last stop... the Trevi Fountain.  Tossing a coin in here ensures a return visit to Rome... so guess we'll be back!

~ J. Twice

THE Best Pizza in the World

There's a reason why so many people are under this canopy...

Naples is gritty. New Orleans gritty. On this average Tuesday a steady rain has developed while our train limps into the station, the afternoon grey matching the sea of white taxicabs and old buildings. The faint smell of sidewalk eateries, diesel engines, and overflowing dumpsters (thanks to a now infamous 3-month landfill crisis) hangs in the air. In fact, if Naples has a sister city I’m sure it would be The Big Easy. Street vendors line the crowded sidewalks, hawking their (questionably legitimate) goods. More established stores still have that “Nordstrom’s Rack” feel as they offer everything from Silver Nike’s to Purple Scarves.

Weaving through this madness in the pouring rain, dragging our beat-up luggage over cobblestone streets and murky puddles, we duck into a doorway. Safe from the rain for a few minutes, I consult the map I’ve stored on my MacBook. “Just a few more blocks,” I reassure my wife, who by her still-smiling attitude is quickly earning her badge for Adventurous Wife of the Year. We’re back out in the rain, and after a hard right down a nondescript side street, we’ve arrived at our destination: The Birthplace of Pizza.

Finding this place was like stumbling upon a Jedi master Yoda in the Degobah System.

Many of you have read Eat, Pray, Love – the #1 New York Times Bestseller that chronicles a woman’s year long journey around the world and most notably her 4 months in Italy. And anyone who has read this book probably has a favorite passage, and of those people, probably 99% would agree it is the chapter on L’antiqua Pizzeria “da Michele,” in which the author describes her nearly orgasmic experience with an over-the-top blend of tomato sauce and melted mozzarella at the famed pizzeria in Naples.

Following author Elizabeth Gilbert’s logic, Italy has the best pizza in the world, and the best pizza in Italy is found in Naples. Now if Pizzeria Da Michele, as it is reputed, has the best pizza in Naples, could it possibly be… The Best Pizza in the World? We had to find out for ourselves.

Arriving at the door, we join a crowd of about 20 mouthwatering customers crammed under a faded canopy, shielded from the cold rain. At Pizzeria Da Michele, tables are so hard to come-by that you must take a number, and ours was 98 (at 2:30 in the afternoon, surely the 3rd or 4th time they’ve gone through the cycle.) The interior has stark white walls with a few green tiles lit by a bank of florescent light bulbs, and no tablecloths. It’s not about decoration – it’s about the pizza.

Before long we were ushered to a table near the back of the restaurant, and nearly 11 seconds later a waiter is hovering over us, demanding our order. “Due (2) Margherita Pizza’s with Extra Mozzarella y Due Coca-Colas,” I blurt out in my best Italian, afraid that like Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi any hesitation would result in our quick expulsion. The waiter smiles back and nods, appreciating my quick response – as there are no menus here at Da Michele – just a small paper sign on the wall outlining your options: Margherita Pizza (with normal, medium, or double cheese) or Marinara Pizza. That’s it. No toppings, no special orders. Just plain or cheese… and to drink – Coke, Fanta, Water, or Local Beer. I love this place already… it’s the In ‘n Out of Pizza.

The reason this place now has a 20-minute wait around the clock is because it literally was the birthplace of pizza, way back in 1870. I don’t know the back-story or circumstances behind it, but it does make me want to find the nearest internet café to do some research. Our pizzas arrive 10 minutes later, and all I know is that the first bite of “tender grain flour, Saint Marzano tomato peels, cheese from Agerola, sunflower oil, Naples water, sea salt, basil, oregano, and garlic” (Official Ingredients) might be one of the best Damn Things I have ever tasted. “Oh my God,” Christie mutters, equally impressed and washing it down with ice-cold Coke – from a glass bottle no less.

Christie Double-Fisting it... Da Michele Style.

I know realize what all the fuss is about: This place is so good that Oprah devoted two full segments to it.

We were all smiles when our pizza arrived...

The crust was so thin... yet so crisp... you almost had to fold it in two.

The bliss.

We eat in silence – mesmerized by something so simple yet so profound. The crust is less than 2 mm thick, and a knife slices through it like it is dough. The base layer of red sauce is sweet, yet not too sweet. The mozzarella is light and literally melts in your mouth. The olive oil drizzled on top keeps the pizza moist – yet the crust never gets greasy. The edges of the pizza fall over the edges of the plate, and I sit in amazement how our two pizzas will only cost us a combined 9 Euro.

A local man, eating by himself, is seated next to us, and through a brief conversation in broken English we solicit that the locals believe what all the tourists already know: This Really is the Best Pizza in Naples (and thus, the world!)

The pizza artists hard at work...

... and the wood burning oven that makes it all possible.

We finish our pizzas and sit for a few minutes, just soaking it all in. The waiter – wearing a shirt that reads “Il Tempio Della Pizza” (The Temple of Pizza) clears our 2 plates and 3 Cokes from the table, flashing a gritty Naples smile at another satisfied customer. Perhaps I’ve gone a little too far in describing this experience, but I still don’t think I’ve done it justice. Just promise me one thing: on your Bucket List, add L’Antiqua Pizzeria da Michele in Naples, the birthplace of pizza, to your list.

~ J. Twice