Gambino: Sicilian for Wine-Tasting

Sicilian wines are not as well known as their northern counterparts in Tuscany, however they have been growing in reputation over the past 30 years and now include some internationally recognized labels.  This afternoon we decided to find out for ourselves with a visit to the Gambino Winery in Linguaglossa, located on the northern slopes of Mt. Etna.

The high altitude grapes at Maria Gambino's.

After ascending through sleepy villages paved with small cobblestone streets, we finally arrived at the winery in the early afternoon.  I was not initially sure of the protocol, as I have now tasted wines in Napa, California; Kelowna, British Columbia; and Tuscany, all with their own local nuances.  In some places you pay, others you don’t, sometimes you sit, other times you stand.  Here, we were ushered to a small table on a patio overlooking the vineyards and with a panoramic view of the valley below, while typical local finger foods such as olives, sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and soft bread were placed before us.  Gambino was already scoring well.

 

Christie in front of the very typical Sicilian foods.

On the patio were scattered about 8 small tables, most of them full of eager tasters speaking English.  We chatted with a large group of Americans - "Military Types" enjoying a brief stop over in Sicily before heading over to "The Sandbox." (Their words, not mine, in reference to Iraq.)  

Immediately I noticed the two intriguing self-descriptions of the vineyard – both a little ‘over-dramatic’ and drawing upon a larger theme of Sicily as a whole:

Sicily is female and loveable.  Pleasing her, courting her to get her amazing fruits is skill and privilege of the few.  Gambino is one of those.  Gambino is one of her lovers.

Paradise and hell.  Water and fire, heat and cold.  Sicily is this.  More than a land, a clash: a marvelous, never-ending clash.  Gambino’s valuable wines are born in this unique and extraordinary environment, 800 meters above sea level.

While all that sounds fancy, the bottom line is that to Italians (and many people around the world), wine is more than a drink – it is a story.  (Interesting enough, the Italian word for history is STORIA… so you can see the value placed on narrative in this country!)  

When you care about the story of wine, you are known as a connoisseur.  

This may be why Italian wines are named not for the grape (like Merlot, Chardonnay, etc), but rather for the region or style trying to be conveyed in the wine. 

During our tasting, we sampled five wines: 2 whites and 3 reds.  While we all found the reds to be a little overpowering, “Oaky,” and containing a hint of ‘smoke’ (lava, perhaps?), the whites were both very good.  Perhaps Sicilian Reds – at least here at Gambino – still have a little growing up to do.

Our favorite wine of the day was a white called Tifeo il Gigante, named after a mythical giant (Typhoeus) thought to live inside of Mt. Etna and who induces her eruptions.  I mean, how can you not love a wine named after a mythical giant?  It was very similar to a Pinot Grigio, with a hint of Almond.  (Almond is a very popular flavor in Sicily, found most typically in Granita). You all have no idea how proud of myself I am for being able to write a sentence containing the word ‘hint of Almond’ – Two years ago my best description of wine would be “OK… Tastes like everything else…”

The vines of Gambino lie on the slopes of Mt. Etna, high above the small village of Linguaglossa.

All in all, it was a great local experience – and I would encourage anyone who has not gone wine tasting (abroad or locally) to go find a vineyard and give it a shot – they typically make for a very relaxing afternoon.

 Was that Galileo on hand today?

To learn more about Gambino wine or for directions, visit: www.vinigambino.it, emailinfo@vinigambino.it, or call (+39) 095 2272678.  It can be located (after winding through miles of small roads) at: Contrada Petto Dragone, 95015 Linguaglossa (CT) Sicily.  

~ J. Twice